Why We Chose the Castelli Romani
Our journey to the Castelli Romani began while watching Stanley in Italy, a National Geographic series. Seeing Stanley Tucci bite into a porchetta sandwich in Ariccia was enough to put the town firmly on our travel wish list.
At first, we planned to stay in Rome and visit Ariccia on a day trip. But the more we read about the Castelli Romani, a collection of picturesque hill towns south of the Italian capital, the more we felt there was much more to discover than just its famous porchetta.
So instead, we directly based ourselves in Ariccia and left the hustle and bustle of Rome aside this time. Hence this Castelli Romani food and travel guide. It proved to be an excellent decision. From there, we explored charming villages, enjoyed walks with beautiful lake views, visited Castel Gandolfo and, of course, ate some memorable meals along the way.
What started as a quest for a famous porchetta sandwich turned into a wonderful introduction to one of Lazio’s most rewarding regions.
Where We Stayed: Ariccia Luxury House
For our stay in Ariccia, we chose Ariccia Luxury House, a small and welcoming boutique hotel with just four rooms, run by Mayla and her husband. We stayed in the stylish Bronze Room, which was modern, spotless and very comfortable. Thoughtful touches such as complimentary tea, coffee and bottled water in the room made us feel right at home.
One of the highlights of our stay was the excellent breakfast, which was included in the room rate. Alongside a selection of local products, a couple of dishes were prepared to order, including eggs, charcuterie plate and crêpes. We also enjoyed Italian brioches, ciambelline cookies, crostata pie with cherry filling and, best of all, the delicious local sourdough bread from nearby Genzano. The speciality coffees were outstanding and made for a great start to each day.
The hotel also offers secure parking within the property and a pleasant balcony with tables and chairs for you to use to enjoy the views over Ariccia.
Ariccia’s historic centre is about a 10-minute walk away along a fairly busy road, but once there you’ll find plenty of bars, cafés and restaurants. For us, Ariccia Luxury House was an excellent base from which to explore both the town and the wider Castelli Romani region.
Our First Evening in Ariccia
After picking up our rental car at Rome Fiumicino Airport, we set off for Ariccia. The drive should have taken about 45 minutes, and we had hoped to arrive around 4 p.m., but heavy traffic and an accident around Rome had other plans. By the time we reached Ariccia Luxury House, it was already close to 6 p.m.
Maya and her husband welcomed us warmly, showed us to our room, and shared some helpful information about the hotel and the surrounding area. They also recommended a local restaurant for dinner, and we were happy to take their advice.
Once settled in, we walked into Ariccia for our first taste of the town’s famous porchetta. Dinner was at the Antico Grottino, where we shared an antipasto platter loaded with delicious porchetta, cold cuts, cheeses and vegetables preserved in olive oil. Served with crispy Genzano bread and a bottle of the house red wine, it was the perfect introduction to the local cuisine.
The best part? The entire meal cost just €25.
After dinner, we walked back to the hotel and had a great night’s sleep, ready to begin exploring the Castelli Romani the next day.
Day 1: Grottaferrata and Frascati
After an excellent breakfast at the hotel, we set off to explore the Castelli Romani. One of the highlights of breakfast was the delicious warm Italian maritozzo, a soft brioche bun filled with sweet cream, along with Maya’s excellent specialty coffee.
Our first stop was Grottaferrata, where we visited the Abbey of San Nilo and the orthodox church. Afterward, we strolled along the main street of Grottaferrata before continuing to Frascati, one of the most famous wine towns in the region and home to the renowned Frascati wines.
Frascati immediately charmed us with its picturesque streets and relaxed atmosphere. Rather than sitting down at a restaurant, we decided to do as many locals do and grab lunch at a butcher shop. Throughout the Castelli Romani, many butchers sell freshly made bread rolls stuffed with your choice of cold cuts from the counter. We chose one filled with porchetta and another with pistachio mortadella, then found a bench and enjoyed a simple but delicious lunch in the heart of town.
After a little more exploring, we returned to the hotel, put our feet up, and relaxed for a few hours.
For dinner, we headed back into Ariccia and ate at Osteria del Borgo. We started with freshly sliced prosciutto, a green salad and bread before moving on to two of the best pasta dishes of our trip: a rich carbonara and a perfectly executed cacio e pepe. A carafe of house wine completed the meal.
The total bill came to just €35, another reminder of how affordable and rewarding dining in the Castelli Romani can be.
Day 2: Market Finds and Lakeside Dining at Lago Albano
Saturday began with another outstanding breakfast at the hotel before we headed to the Mercato del Contadino, a farmers market showcasing local produce and specialties from the region.
From there, we made our way to Lago Albano for a scenic walk along the lake. We spent about two hours exploring the area on foot before driving down to the lakeshore, where we rewarded ourselves with pre-lunch drinks at the beach bar of I Quadri. For €15, we enjoyed a glass of white wine, a Crodino, and some olives, all with beautiful views across the lake.
We liked the setting so much that we stayed for lunch at I Quadri. Seated on the restaurant’s outdoor terrace overlooking the water, we started with tiny deep-fried squid and a smoked tuna and tomato salad topped with burrata. For our main courses, we chose spaghetti alle vongole and a memorable pasta with octopus ragù, lemon zest, and almonds. Paired with water, the meal came to €55.
Compared to the traditional restaurants we’d visited so far, I Quadri felt a little more refined, but still excellent value. It’s definitely a place we would happily return to.
The day was hot, and after all the walking, we decided to take it easy that evening. On our way back, we stopped at a Conad supermarket and picked up cold cuts, bread, a salad, fruit, and a bottle of Frascati wine. Back at the hotel, we enjoyed a simple picnic dinner on the balcony as the sun set over Ariccia.
It was the perfect ending to a beautiful day in the Castelli Romani.
Day 3: Lake Nemi and a Traditional Sunday Lunch
After another great night’s sleep and a delicious breakfast, we headed to Lake Nemi for a walk around the entire lake. With clear skies and sunshine all day, it was a perfect Sunday in the Castelli Romani.
Around lunchtime, we drove to Genzano di Roma in search of a restaurant. Not having made a reservation turned out to be a mistake, as Sunday lunch is a big event for Italian families. Three restaurants later, we still hadn’t found a table. Luckily, the owner of the third restaurant kindly called a local trattoria and booked us a table.
A short walk brought us to Osteria Pelliccione, where we enjoyed pasta with artichoke and guanciale, carciofi alla giudia (Jewish-style fried artichokes), stewed chicken with peppers, and abbacchio alla svinatora, a traditional Roman lamb stew (all classic Roman specialties). The service was very slow, with more than an hour passing before our appetizers arrived, but the food was excellent. Sitting outside in the shade, surrounded by local families, we felt like the only tourists there. With two bottles of water, the bill came to €57.
After our long lake walk and leisurely lunch, we spent a quiet evening at the hotel, enjoying the leftovers from the previous night’s picnic dinner on our balcony. It was a simple but perfect end to another wonderful day.
Day 4: Castel Gandolfo and My Favorite Lunch of the Trip
Thinking we could avoid the crowds, we planned our visit to Castel Gandolfo for Monday. We were right. When we arrived around 10 a.m., there wasn’t a line in sight. It almost felt as if we had the place to ourselves.
We toured the Pope’s summer residence, including the palace, apartments, and gardens. The views over Lake Albano and toward Rome were stunning, and the whole visit felt wonderfully peaceful.
Afterward, we stopped for an espresso on Piazza della Libertà, a beautiful square that was just beginning to wake up for the day. We then walked along Corso della Repubblica, looking at restaurant menus, but most places felt geared toward tourists and were noticeably more expensive than the restaurants we had enjoyed elsewhere in the Castelli Romani. That was enough of a red flag for us.
Instead, we drove back down to Lake Albano and ended up at what became my favorite lunch spot of the entire trip: Da Agnese, the last restaurant tucked away along the lakeshore.
We started with grilled vegetables, preserved vegetables, and bread, followed by pasta alla gricia and the daily special: a delicious parmigiana di melanzane that cost just €6. With water and espresso, our total bill came to only €25.
Back at the hotel, we enjoyed a short afternoon nap before walking into Ariccia for a white wine aperitivo (7 euros) at Bar Centrale on Piazza della Repubblica.
For dinner, we returned to the restaurant where our Castelli Romani adventure had begun: Antico Grottino. We shared a platter of porchetta, a green salad, preserved vegetables, bread, and a bottle of the house white wine. Once again, the bill came to just €25.
After another wonderful day of sightseeing and great food, we headed back to the hotel and slept like babies.
Day 5: A Disappointing Town but an Outstanding Final Lunch
For our last full day in the Castelli Romani, we decided to drive to the seaside town of Nettuno. The journey took about 45 minutes over some very poorly maintained roads, and to be honest, the town itself wasn’t really worth the trip. We didn’t connect with it and wouldn’t return either.
Lunch, however, was a completely different story.
We ate at Romolo al Borgo and it turned out to be one of the best meals of our entire trip. Seated outside in the shade, we started with fantastic crostini soaked in tomato sauce and topped with flaky canned tuna. Next came homemade seafood gnocchi, which were spectacular, and a plate of spaghetti alle vongole.
For our main courses, we shared a fillet of turbot covered with fried zucchini and a local ombrina fish served in a light lemon sauce. Everything was beautifully prepared and absolutely delicious. With water, the bill came to €65.
After such a memorable lunch, we headed back to Ariccia Luxury House for one final picnic dinner on our balcony. As the sun went down over Ariccia, we enjoyed a quiet evening reflecting on a wonderful few days in the Castelli Romani.
The next morning, after one last marritozzo breakfast made my Mayla and her husband, it was time to leave for the airport and catch our flight to Malta.
Final Thoughts
What began as a quest to try Ariccia’s famous porchetta after seeing it on Stanley Tucci’s television series turned into one of our favorite Italian getaways.
The Castelli Romani gave us exactly what we were looking for: great food, beautiful scenery, charming towns, and a slower pace of life just outside Rome.
We’re not the kind of travelers who try to squeeze twenty sights into one single day. We prefer a slower rhythm, with time for a coffee on a sunny piazza, a leisurely lunch, an afternoon break, or simply sitting and enjoying the view. That’s probably why our evening picnics on the hotel balcony became some of our fondest memories of the trip.
The Castelli Romani proved to be the perfect destination for this style of travel. We came for the porchetta, and left with a genuine appreciation for a region best enjoyed slowly, one meal, one walk, and one village at a time.